st laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior and other major French fashion brands are starring in Men’s Fashion Week starting this Tuesday, a sector in expansion that has led Givenchy to focus on its creations ahead of women’s Haute Couture, and Saint Laurent to return to Paris after years of absence.
This Tuesday night, on the first day of this Fashion Week, will be the first time that Saint Laurent will reveal its men’s collection in Paris since the Belgian Anthony Vaccarello took over the ‘maison’, in 2016.
Since then, women’s fashion had been the great headline of the firm, which left its men’s collections for shows outside the official calendar of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, with shows abroad.
A bet that has also just been seen at Milan Fashion Week where, after the departure of its artistic director, Alessandro Michele, Gucci has also returned to the men’s catwalk.
In Paris, the entry of American Matthew Williams into Givenchy, owned by the luxury brand conglomerate LVMH, has led the brand to abandon its attempt to return to Haute Couture and propose its men’s fashion on the catwalk, with collections that opt for a luxury urban.
This trend, led by creators such as Virgil Abloh, who died in 2021 at the age of 41 at a stellar moment in his career, is setting the pace for men’s fashion houses, which are on an exponential path with results that, on occasion, reach the figures of the women’s collections in brands such as Saint Laurent or Gucci.
New men’s fashion icons
Behind this success is also hidden the arrival of new style icons, such as the singer Harry Styles or the actor Timothée Chalamet, a generation that gives aesthetics a fundamental weight in their careers and is not afraid to pose with skirts, instead of a harness. jacket and colors traditionally less associated with the male wardrobe, such as pink.
At Louis Vuitton, for which Abloh was creative director from 2018 until his death, the creation of the men’s collection is still in the hands of the house’s creative team, which worked with the American, waiting to find the ideal successor for it. the post.
It is not an easy task because, with Abloh at the helm, the brand carried out some of its most spectacular fashion shows and proposed garments that have marked the silhouette of men’s fashion on red carpets starring sports, film and music stars.
After the Saint Laurent show on Tuesday night, Givenchy will show his creations on Wednesday, while Louis Vuitton’s proposals for the autumn-winter 2023/2024 season can be seen this Thursday, alongside those of creators such as Issey Miyake and Ami – Alexandre Mattiussi, one of the rising promises of Paris.
On January 20 it will be the turn of Dior Homme, Paul Smith and Officine Générale, before giving way on Saturday to the new collection of the Spanish firm Loewe, the queen of recycling Marine Serre and Sankuanz, among others.
The men’s fashion catwalk will close on Sunday with talents such as Sacai, the Asturian Arturo Obegero, increasingly established in Paris, and Maison Margiela, who will put the icing on the cake. On Monday, January 23, it will be the turn of the Haute Couture presentations, which will take place in Paris until Thursday the 26th.
Source: Gestion

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