Txikon achieves a historic purely winter ascent in Manaslu

Euskaraz irakurri: Txikonek balentria historikoa egin du negu betea Manasluren gailurrera iritsita

The Biscayan mountaineer Alex Txikon has reached the top of Manaslu (8,163 meters above sea level) in which it is the first ascent purely winter (beginning and ending in winter) of the eighth highest mountain on the planet, and the first ascent to be carried out in winter in the last 20 years. Only 22 people have previously made it to the top at this time of year.

After two previous attempts that allowed him to see Manaslu first hand, in 2023 he has managed to conquer the mountain. txikon has trodden the summit at 9:30 local time in Nepal together with his Nepali companions, among whom are Chhepal Sherpa either Pasang Sherpa.

Communication team: SUMMIT¿¿¿
Alex has communicated at 9:00 (local time) by radio that he was at the top with the team of Nepali climbers.

Pic by: Jackson Groves#wintersummits pic.twitter.com/fzdtJoq1MW

— Alex Txikon (@AlexTxikon) January 6, 2023

After the abandonment of his Italian partner simon moro“the mission headed by Txikon arrived at the summit on Friday morning”, has indicated the general director of Seven Summit Treks, Mingma Sherpathe largest climbing agency in the Himalayan country.

“It is a moment of pride for the mountaineering fraternity,” he stressed, adding that all members are safe and plan to reach base camp this afternoon.

txikon Already unsuccessfully attempted the winter ascent of Manaslu in the 2020-2021 seasonand again at the beginning of 2022, some expeditions made difficult by heavy snowfall and winds.

CHANGE OF STRATEGY

The Lemoa mountaineer achieved the desired goal after a change in strategy, a month of acclimatization to be able to attack the summit at the first opportunity and in good weather. “We are very tired but tremendously excited. Now it’s time to go down little by little and arrive all safe and sound. That’s when we’ll get to the real peak.“, explained the Basque mountaineer during his descent.

The team led by Alex Txikon approached this year’s challenge differently, after two failed first attempts. He arrived at Manaslu Base Camp on December 26, at about 5,000 meters of altitude. They verified that the last days of the year the wind would get stronger, but little by little the weather would begin to stabilize.

The January 4 they took the necessary material and went directly up to C2, at about 6,400 meters. “We have done about 1,500 meters of unevenness. The route has been very hard due to the wind and all the material we brought“, highlighted the Basque mountaineer. A day later, they rested at C2 and quickly ascended to C3 (just below 7,000 meters).

With favorable weather, they understood that this Friday, at dawn, was their opportunity to try the top and achieve the feat. Beside Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa Y Gamje Babu Sherpahis roped partners, txikon attacked the summit and at 9:30 (local time) they managed to ascend the eighth highest mountain in the world, without the help of artificial oxygen and in the middle of winter, a milestone never before achieved.

¿ Alex Txikon climbs Manaslu FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY ¿ on a winter expedition ¿ The audio says it all!

Today he adds his second winter summit after Nanga Parbat (02/26/2016) pic.twitter.com/XJwUQpgIEZ

— Alex Txikon (@AlexTxikon) January 6, 2023

MAIN SUMMIT

Mount Manaslu has been climbed every year, but climbers only reach the front summit, which is just below the main summit.

The first winter ascent to Manaslu dates from January 12, 1984, the work of the Poles Maciej Berbeka Y Ryszard Gajewski. Since then only four expeditions with a total of 15 people have successfully reached the front summit in winter.

“Climbing Manaslu during winter is daring,” as the last stretch is very steep and covered in snow, so “climbers don’t normally venture there during fall and winter. Its last stretch becomes life-threatening.” because of the fresh snow,” explained Seven Summit Treks manager Thaneshwor Guragain.

A group of climbers led by Mingma Sherpa He managed for the first time in 45 years to reach the main summit of Manaslu in autumn 2021.