From fashion that seeks to empower women to the search for clothing that respects people and the environment, the London Fashion Week set trends during five days of parades that ended this Tuesday.
Between femininity and feminism
Seeking a balance “between the femininity of the past and the feminism of today,” South Korean designer Yoon Choon Ho presented a spring-summer 2020 collection on Tuesday inspired by the late-19th-century American sniper Annie Oakley.
Like her, the women of YCH wear visored leather hats or cowgirl hats with fringed vests and sewn-in or bustier tops. But far from being tight and limiting, skirts are pleated to allow movement and oversized jackets are worn over very long-sleeved shirts.
On high-waisted pants and layered trench coats, dark chocolate colors contrast with fluorescent greens or pale blues. And everything is combined with three-piece bags that imitate a rifle holster.
The Irish Sharon Wauchob opted for her part by creations that can be worn by men and women. “I’ve always liked the androgynous image,” she confessed after her show over the weekend, where she featured flowing pantsuits and silky feathered dresses.
Also the stylist duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman made a bold mix of genres, drawing inspiration from the films “Farinelli” by Gérard Corbiau and “Amadeus” by Milos Forman, as well as the character of the French queen Marie Antoinette.
Playing with contrasts, they mixed lace and heavy metal shirts and combined denim with delicate fabrics like satin and tulle.
“We explore the idea of pansexuality, the attraction to a person regardless of their gender identity,” they explained.
Sustainable ethical fashion
Driven by the “Positive Fashion” initiative launched by London Fashion Week, already in tune with the environmental movement Extinction Rebellion which organized several protests coinciding with the fashion shows, more and more designers integrate concern for the environment and production ethics into their garments.
The Guatemalan stylists Gabriela Luna and Corina del Pinal, installed in London With their Luna Del Pinal brand, they seek to make “slow and responsible fashion”, creative and sustainable. Fascinated by ancient weaving techniques, they turn to indigenous artisans to create their roomy, comfortable designs with a certain oriental flair.
Other young designers seek to give a second life to garments or accessories. Romanian Ancuta Sarca creates hybrid footwear, a mixture of trainers and high-heeled shoes recovered from used clothing stores. And Mariah Esa, a recent graduate, uses discarded garment labels to make her creations: up to 2,000 labels to make a coat.
volume and geometry
Among the essential styles of the spring-summer 2020 season presented in London include the voluminous but ethereal creations of the British Molly Goddard and the geometric and mobile dresses of the Serbian Roksanda, who leaves in her creations a clear example of her training as an architect.
In her energetic designs, which seem designed to boost morale, the Serbian creator stands out for her choice of colors. Combinations of pink and tangerine that in Monday’s parade contrasted with the gray sky of London.
British fashion’s rising star, Goddard unveiled gauzy creations over the weekend that are reminiscent of her famous pink tulle gown, which caused rivers of ink to flow after being worn by Villanelle, an eccentric female hit woman, on the television series “Killing Eve”.
Their voluminous dresses and skirts, in chicken yellow or coral red, are worn with heelless leather boots.
After the parade, the English woman acknowledged not having had a specific theme in mind but rather being interested in “individual styles”. “I looked at the things I’ve done in the last five years, the things I like the most, and I did them again, but bigger and better.”
Source: Gestion
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