Emily Raemaekers, a designer from Scotland, introduces “Symbio”, a clothing piece that takes inspiration from the shapes of mushrooms. This garment is part of a collection considered “experimental” whose purpose is to address the problem of water pollution related to textile dyeing.
“It was really an exploratory process, as I had never used these fibers before“, the designer explained to EFE in an interview conducted at The National Museum of Scotland, in Edinburgh.
The garment will be displayed there until this Sunday as part of the ‘Growing Home’ exhibition, which is part of the Edinburgh Science Festivalwhich celebrates its 35th anniversary this year.
The exhibition explores the use of materials in ‘fast fashion’ and how biomaterials They can be a more sustainable option in the fashion and engineering.
Reusable and sustainable materials
The ‘Symbio’ dress uses natural water-based inks such as dried hibiscus flowers to create a unique pink and red hue on the base of the clothing as a more sustainable alternative to those using plastic bases and is decorated with linocut to create a pattern that imitates the mycelium, the base structure of the fungusas he explained.
The mushroom-like bracket elements were attached using appliqué, an ornamental sewing technique. The elaborate structure of the cape is created by laser cutting.
The sample is made from a pulp fiber of wood called Tencel that comes from renewable sources, through a closed-loop manufacturing process, meaning that the materials they are reusable.
“I think the fact that I am mixing different biomaterials is quite unique.“, referring to the combination of leather that uses apple waste, lyocell fabric made of cellulose and SeaCell, mixed with algae, silk, cork and linen, said Raemaekers, who worked as costume designer in the Scottish film and theater industry.
Vegetable leathers used include Uppeal, created from apple processing waste from the juice and compote industry, and Muskin, made from a wild mushroom of subtropical environments, for designs additional in their garments.
The ‘outfit’ is “light and very comfortable and is not 100% sustainable – the designer confirmed – but it is a step in the right direction and shows what is possible if we invest the money and effort in researching ways to do it.”.
Mushrooms: the future of fashion
Just as interest increases in biomaterialsincreases global scrutiny of any associated claims of green or health credentials.
“We need to start thinking about things that are more circular, more sustainable“, stated the artist rooted in Edinburghin reference to the choice of materials of the clothes we buy.
The objective, he points out, is to eradicate the problem behind the fashion industrywhich is the second most polluting in the world only after oil companies, according to data from the 2019 UN Conference on Trade and Development.
He adds that “even things like cotton, which is a natural material, is a very, very thirsty plant. It has a great carbon footprint in your manufacturing process”. Raemaekers considers that “we need to continue experimenting and finding alternatives” to reduce the impact, because “The less plastic you are using and washing, the less microplastics will end up in the environment.”.
Source: Gestion

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