Climate change, inflation and shortages endanger the famous French mustard

Mustard grains suffer from climate change, the price of white wine, glass and cardboard is skyrocketing and supply problems are increasing around the world. The combination of all these factors strongly punishes the famous French Dijon mustard.

“In 2021-2022, mustard seed production is estimated to have fallen 28%” in Canada, the world’s largest producer, according to the latest report from the Canadian Ministry of Agriculture. “Therefore, the average price should be almost double that of 2020-2021, reaching a record of US $ 1,700 per ton,” he adds.

“There has been a disastrous drought in western Canada” last summer, explains Ramzy Yelda, a commodity markets analyst. “Those who want high-end mustard will pay more,” he sums up.

And when there are problems in Canada, Burgundy, in east-central France, is affected. The region where the vast majority of mustard manufacturers are located relies heavily on Canadian farmers for the manufacture of this condiment consumed around the world.

“We are in a crisis that we have not seen in 25 years”, laments Christophe Planes, France sales director at “Reine de Dijon”, the third largest French producer of mustard, a subsidiary of the German group Develey. “The price of seeds has multiplied by three or four, and perhaps soon five,” he adds.

“Besides there is no offer. The shortage is such that we have a potential decrease of 50% of the seeds. Our production will therefore be less than 50% ”, he highlights.

“The shortage is a reality,” confirms Marika Zimmermann, industrial director of the Dijon-based company. “Normally our production lines run 120 hours a week. We are at an average of 60 hours at the moment ”.

The situation is even more tense as the prices of packaging products skyrocket. “Every day they announce a raise to me. The impact on global prices is more than 60% ”, explains Planes.

Capsules, pots and wine

“The metal capsules in the jars increased 42%, glass 12%, cardboard 20%”, stresses Marc Désarménien, director of the Fallot mustard factory. Burgundy white wine, another essential ingredient, doubled, due to a late frost that severely amputated the harvest in 2021.

The French company, which exports half of its production to Japan, also points out the cost of sea freight “multiplied by 4.5 and even 6, which represents 10% -15% of the sale price.”

Fallot has already decided to increase its mustards between “between 7% and 16%” by 2022.

Reina de Dijon also anticipates an increase. “We need it, otherwise the company doesn’t survive,” says Christophe Planes.

To try to find a solution, the official would like to limit dependence on Canada, the main supplier of the seeds transformed by mustards, and “boost the production of mustard seeds in Burgundy.”

The local cultivation of seeds, which was once very widespread, dates back to the Middle Ages in Dijón, but currently there is a sharp decline in production due to globalization of trade and competition from countries with higher yields.

After recovery efforts, local farmers today suffer from global warming that, “for three or four years, has caused an increase in insect populations,” explains Fabrice Genin, producer of mustard seeds at Marsannaye le Bois in Burgundy. and president of the Association of Mustard Seed Producers of Burgundy (APGMB).

Burgundy seed production was “divided by three in four years, going from 12,000 tons to 4,000 tons in 2021, while mustard manufacturers could order 16,000 from us,” he stresses.