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From Peru to Asturias, the fight for the legacy of spicy and guisanderas

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The spicy ones of the Peruvian city of Arequipawith chicha de guiñapo or chupes, and guisanderas from Asturias (Spain) with pot or roll meat, were shown this Monday at the FéminAs congress as examples of the struggle to defend the culinary legacies of their territories, preventing globalization from destroying them.

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Members of the Arequipa Spicy Societywhich this year celebrates its tenth anniversary, and Guisanderas Club of Asturias (northern Spain)who is just turning 25, participated in the II International Congress of Gastronomy, Women and Rural Environment which is held in the Asturian town of Cangas del Narcea, where the former will pick up the II Guardians of Tradition Award tomorrow for this work.

Proud of their traditions

The Peruvian women, dressed in the typical dress of the spicy women (wide-brimmed hat, red and white Vichy check apron, white blouse and burgundy skirt), and the Asturian women, with their cook jackets, are exponents of two styles of cuisine well different people who share their passion for traditional recipes, from humble origins, which they defend day by day with their work and their organizations.


The picadorias of Arequipa, which seek their inclusion as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity After being recognized as Cultural Heritage of the Nation since 2014, they are food houses that evolved from chicherías, chicha de guiñapo (a kind of black corn beer) outlets, which were serving their clients picantitos (spicy snacks) to increase the consumption of the drink.

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Always in the hands of women, the culinary offer was progressing and lollipops were added –”a hearty soup of chicken, lamb, beef or shrimp with potatoes and vegetables of which Arequipa has one for each day of the week”Explain Monica Hidalgofrom La Nueva Palomino, and stews, all cooked “without any electrical device, slowly to the firewood” and with the “craft blender” que is the batán, a kind of volcanic stone mortar.

Originally, these businesses gave economic independence to women who could support their families in this way, so “They were rejected by society”something that has changed over time.

Those who today continue with the legacy of their ancestors, could not feel more proud of keeping the picadories alive, which survived “to wars and revolutions” but they are almost swept away by contemporary cuisine and globalization.

With the traditional toast to the cry of “to the portals!”showing photographs of their predecessors and with an ovation they have bid farewell to an audience devoted to their cause.

Territorial identity and pride

On another continent, Asturian guisanderas have been fighting for 25 years to maintain local stews and products, a sign of a territorial identity that they proudly defend.

Those who have participated this Monday in FéminAs are guardians of the gastronomy of southwestern Asturias, where there is no trace of bean stew or cider and the pot of collard greens, meat on a roll (filled with a ham and pepper tortilla and bathed in sauce) triumph. , stuffed cabbage, stewed tongue or chosco, a pork sausage in a cured and smoked version, which is consumed as cold meat, and fresh for stews.

the stew Angela Perezfrom House Emburria (Tineo)was one of the founders of the Peas Club and refers that each year they integrate two new members, perhaps because after the techno-emotional kitchen “What used to be valued again”.

It was precisely then that they felt the threat of traditional Asturian cuisine and they organized themselves. “We were afraid and we fought, we fought and we fought, and now we are very happy because he is in a good moment and a good future awaits him thanks to the fact that there is generational change”it states.

The Guisanderas Club is made up only of women: “There are not so many men who dedicate themselves to traditional cuisine in this area. There are very good cooks, of course, but stews are things for women”.

Source: Gestion

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