Alex Txikon arrives at Manaslu base camp after his historic purely winter ascent

Euskaraz irakurri: Alex Txikon kanpamentu nagusian da, Manaslun balentria historikoa egin ostean

Alex Txikon You have already reached the Manaslu base camp behind the historic purely winter ascent that has culminated this Friday, January 6, 2023. The climber from Lemoa (Bizkaia) has managed to crown the top of the eighth highest mountain on the planet (8,163 meters above sea level) in which it is the first purely winter ascent (beginning and ending in winter), and the first to be held in winter in the last 20 years.

Communication team: LAST MINUTE! Alex and the group of Nepalese climbers have just arrived at BC. At the moment they are resting and recovering their strength. CONGRATULATIONS CHAMPIONS!!! pic.twitter.com/P92pseMMGN

— Alex Txikon (@AlexTxikon) January 6, 2023

After two previous attempts that allowed him to see Manaslu first hand, in 2023 he has managed to conquer the mountain. Txikon has trodden the summit at 9:30 local time in Nepal together with his Nepali companions, among whom are Chhepal Sherpa or Pasang Sherpa.

“It’s a proud moment for the mountaineering fraternity“He stressed, adding that all the members are safe and plan to arrive at base camp this afternoon.

txikon Already unsuccessfully attempted the winter ascent of Manaslu in the 2020-2021 seasonand again at the beginning of 2022, some expeditions made difficult by heavy snowfall and winds.

CHANGE OF STRATEGY

The Lemoa mountaineer achieved the desired goal after a change in strategy, a month of acclimatization to be able to attack the summit at the first opportunity and in good weather. “We are very tired but tremendously excited. Now it’s time to go down little by little and arrive all safe and sound. That’s when we’ll get to the real peak.“, explained the Basque mountaineer during his descent.

The team led by Alex Txikon approached this year’s challenge differently, after two failed first attempts. He arrived at Manaslu Base Camp on December 26, at about 5,000 meters of altitude. They verified that the last days of the year the wind would get stronger, but little by little the weather would begin to stabilize.

The January 4 they took the necessary material and went directly up to C2, at about 6,400 meters. “We have done about 1,500 meters of unevenness. The route has been very hard due to the wind and all the material we brought“, highlighted the Basque mountaineer. A day later, they rested at C2 and quickly ascended to C3 (just below 7,000 meters).

With favorable weather, they understood that this Friday, at dawn, was their opportunity to try the top and achieve the feat. Beside Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa Y Gamje Babu Sherpahis roped partners, txikon attacked the summit and at 9:30 (local time) they managed to ascend the eighth highest mountain in the world, without the help of artificial oxygen and in the middle of winter, a milestone never before achieved.