The silhouettes are ultra-feminine and the parades are conventional, far from some recent scandals, in the Fashion Week women’s competition that ends this Tuesday in Paris.
The moving tributes to two missing figures, Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne, and the discretion of Balenciaga were highlighted, after a controversial advertising campaign with children and nods to sadomasochism that prompted a public apology from its creator, Demna.
Skirt suit for Saint Laurent
st laurent He made the jacket suit with a skirt his main proposal for the fall winter of 2023/2024.
Slit pencil skirt, jacket with shoulder pads, plunging neckline and stilettos: it was all drawn from the house archives of the ’80s.
Dior it went back further in time, to the aesthetics of the 1950s. The legendary founder of the firm invented the New Look for women in that decade, to drive away memories of wartime straits.
The skirts are wide again, below the knee, marked waists, floral prints. The woman wears gloves and heels, although with touches of punk rebellion, for example with wrinkled fabrics.
The young stylist Charles de vilmorin she also revisited the 50s for Rochas, with pencil skirts and wasp waists.
givenchy Redefine elegance with a high-shouldered jacket, skirt, or sheer miniskirt.
For the Vivienne Westwood house, the female suit is mesh, with a hat and golden boots.
Red
Red dominated the refined collection of the Hermès woman, “powerful and sensual”.
Lanvin added a red hood to a sequined dress. Issey Miyake used it for her coats.
For his first collection at the Ann Demeulemeester house, Ludovic de Saint Sernin used very dark burgundy reds, almost like a “fake black”, minimalist.
Red does not have a negative connotation in any culture and is even accepted by those who do not love colours, explains Christian Louboutin to AFP, who is celebrating 30 years of red soles for his shoes and pumps.
Heels
Heels triumph on all catwalks, whether as stilettos for Balenciaga, Ann Demeulemeester or Saint Laurent, combined with the usual Hermès horse riding boots, and even for designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who previously did not use them in her Dior collections.
“Feminist, anti-feminist… I hope we are over all of that by now. Women have won, they own their bodies.” reasons Pierre Hardy, head of the Hermès footwear collections, for AFP. “It’s an intimate and personal choice,” Explain.
vivienne and paco
The noise of dresses created with materials “unlikely” and the voice of Paco Rabanne resounded in the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, an ideal place for the Basque creator who invented fashion “metallic”.
Rabanne passed away on February 3 after a lifetime dedicated to fashion in France. Several gold and silver dresses closed the show, with the intention of evoking her avant-garde creations.
Andreas Kronthaler, husband of Vivienne Westwood, who died in December, presented a parade in honor of the queen of punk.
Cora Corré, granddaughter of Vivienne Westwood, paraded in a white lace bodysuit, like a wedding dress, to close the exciting parade.
Break in Balenciaga
Balenciaga presented a very refined parade, different from his previous shows. Weakened by the campaign that mixed children and sadomasochistic-inspired accessories, Demna presented a somewhat severe collection.
“The house does not need” shows, when in addition “can be misinterpreted” explained François-Henri Pinault, president of the group keringthe parent company of Balenciaga.
Source: AFP
Source: Gestion
Bruce is a talented author and journalist with a passion for entertainment . He currently works as a writer at the 247 News Agency, where he has established himself as a respected voice in the industry.
