The other side of luxurious alpaca fiber garments

Juan Chávez has more than 40 years dedicated to alpaca breeding in the district of Conduriri, in the upper area of ​​the province of El Collao-Ilave, south of FistHe lives in a thatched hut with no basic services. His income from the sale of fiber from this animal barely allows him and his family to survive. This is the reality of the Peruvian alpaca farmer.

The shearing This is the activity in which breeders cut the alpaca’s fur to sell the wool. They can only do this once a year. It is essential to their economy.

Juan, however, no longer has any hope of progress. His face is burnt because the breeding takes place at 4,000 meters above sea level. The climate here is harsh. That is why he is surprised that clothes made from the wool of these alpacas around us are sold at such high prices in other countries, while they receive only 15 soles per pound. It is another story of economic inequality to the detriment of the most humble.

Chain of inequality

This inequality, for which State support in technology and legal matters is insufficient, can be seen in the local market, where products are sold in exclusive stores at prices ranging from 1,000 to 6,000 soles.

Peru is a world leader in the production of alpaca fiberwhich has 87% of these animals in the world, according to the Ministry of Agrarian Development and Irrigation (Midagri). Puno and Cusco occupy the first places.

Only in the Puno plateau, according to the Special Project of South American Camelids (Pecsa), there are more than 7,000 producers of alpaca fiber. There are many grouped in organizations and cooperatives.

The figures seem to be good news. Every year, around 200 million dollars are exported, mainly to the United States, Italy and China.

Not everyone benefits equally, of course. In Peru, it is the companies that transform the alpaca fiberThis list is headed by two groups. The first is Grupo Michell, which operates under the corporate name Michell & Cía SA; and Grupo Inca.

“The fiber of the gods”

The same thing happens with communities dedicated to raising vicunawhose wool is called “the fiber of the gods” because it is mainly golden in color. Unlike the alpacathis non-domesticated species has the highest desired quality. It is estimated that there are currently more than 200,000 vicuñas in Peru, almost half of them on the mainland.

The Italian brand Loro Piana, owned by the LVMH conglomerate, which includes brands such as Luis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Fendi, Mard Jacobs, among others, sells a sweater made with wool from Peruvian vicuna about $9,000 in New York, Milan or London. However, you can get the raw material for $280.

LVMH is run by Bernard Arnault, whose fortune is estimated at $233 billion according to Forbes magazine.

Along those lines, a Business Insider investigation found that Dior bags cost around $57 to make, but sell for up to $2,780, while Armani bags go from $99 to $1,900.

Fujimori government gave free rein

Returning to the Peruvian context, it should be noted that a rule passed by the government of Alberto Fujimori at the end of his government put national farmers at a disadvantage. The shearing of vicuñas It was banned in 1969 to protect the species.

In 1994, through a law, the commercialization of their fiber was allowed, respecting rules and with the agreement of the community that had them on their land freely. However, in 2000, before fleeing the country, the Fujimori regime allowed companies to also dedicate themselves to this activity with the same rights as local populations. In that situation, Loro Piana bought land and was given the green light to breed, shear and sell directly.

Animal abuse before the courts

This is how Mallkini, the largest farm, was established. It is located near Muñani, in Puno. In this regard, an investigation by the PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) organization revealed alleged acts of cruelty. With videos as evidence, it revealed that, during shearing, the animals were left with wounds or stitched up without pain relief. The case was brought to court. There are five defendants for animal abuse. The case is in the hands of the Superior Court of Justice of Puno in Azángaro.

They cannot negotiate prices

Menancio Flores, an alpaca producer from Santa Lucía, in the province of San Román, says that the situation became critical when these large companies entered the breeding and production business because it posed unfair competition. Negotiating the price is becoming increasingly unlikely. “For example, the Michell Group already breeds alpacas alpacas. Mallkini has his farm. He has the right to invest in whatever he wants, but there is one detail. They have a large investment and that allows them to optimize their production. On the other hand, the farmer, despite his training, does not have the resources to invest in technology. Furthermore, since they are the buyers and producers, it is more difficult to achieve better prices for our fiber,” he warned.

“It’s the area where I grew up”

Tomás Medina lives in the town of Jatucache, district of Laraqueri, province of Puno. Since he was a child he has been dedicated to alpaca breeding. In rainy weather, working outdoors means risking your life because lightning can strike anyone at any moment. In the midst of snowfall, cold and hail, you have to take care of your alpacas.

“Where would I go if my land is here? My animals are the product of my efforts. Besides, it is the area where I grew up,” he says, resigned.

Remember that for every pound of alpaca fiber In Peru, the price is only 15 soles. The price even drops when there is little production. Each animal earns between two and three pounds, which means that one animal generates an annual income of around 45 soles at most. Breeding is only profitable if you have a large number of camelids. Most local alpaca farmers have between 70 and 300 animals, which is not enough.

Medina Mamanchura adds that necessity sometimes forces them to sacrifice their animals.
“You have to wait a year for a good shearing. Most of them have school-age children. They take advantage of that,” he exclaimed.

Greater organization is needed

Alex Montufar is a researcher and camelid producer at the Irpajso farm in Conduriri-Ilave. He says that breeding cattle on these lands, which are even hit by frosts that prevent other activities, is one of the few ways to make money, but that it is becoming less and less viable. He explained that it is feasible to achieve lower prices, but a strong organization of local producers is required. He estimated that the pound should go from 15 to 35 soles. “In some way it would compensate for the effort of living far away and in these conditions,” he said.

According to the National Society of Alpaca and Llama Breeders of Peru (SPAR), by 2023 the Puno plateau has a population of 2 million 131 thousand heads of alpacaThis population of camelids produced 4 million 170 thousand 820 pounds, the sale of which generated an economic movement of 62 million 562 thousand soles.

The gap between expensive garments made from Peruvian raw materials and the meager money paid to local producers is evident. What is glamour for some is cheap work for others.

FACT: differences between species

• The camelids of the Andes are cute, furry animals, but they are often confused. For example, llamas, alpacas and vicuñas.
• Llamas are the tallest and longest-eared species, and have thinner fur. Their wool is not the most sought after. They are used for cargo.
• The alpacas They are half the size of llamas, have symmetrical ears and have fine, uniformly colored fur. Their wool is in high demand. The gestation time of a alpaca It is 11 months old and only gives birth to one offspring.
• Vicuñas, unlike the alpacasThey are wild camelids, but they have the finest and most sought-after fur.